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Kallakoopah Creek/White Lakes Megafauna Expedition

kallakoopah creek

Kallakoopah Creek/White Lakes Megafauna Expedition 

Incorporating the route of Explorer Charles Winnecke in 1883

14 Day Expedition - July 1 > July 14, 1 day 4WD/12 days trekking/1 day 4WD

Survey grade: 

Survey price: $9800 DesertSaver price if paid in full by December 16: $9280

f info
Charles Winnecke
Winnecke Journal
Winnecke map
mike smith
map
teeth

Our first scientific expedition, the Arid Rivers Expedition in 2007, took us along the Kallakoopah Creek in the southern Simpson Desert, a remarkable journey through a rarely visited ephemeral waterway.


The Kallakoopah Creek, along with its nearby salt lakes and the Warburton River to the south, has long been recognised as an area rich in megafauna fossils. During the 18-day 2007 expedition, we discovered numerous sites containing Diprotodon bones along both sides of the creek. Equally significant, our resident archaeologist, the late Professor Mike Smith, documented hundreds of artefacts and several habitation sites, highlighting the deep human history of the area.


We initially planned a return to the site in 2009, but major flooding left the creek and its surrounding floodplain submerged. When we finally returned in 2014, we were able to relocate the fossils discovered in 2007. Remarkably, the 2009 floods had exposed even more fossils, providing an unexpected bonus. The expedition extracted a skull and other large bones from the creek bank, wrapping them in plaster cloth before loading them onto camels for transport. This was a historic moment - the first time since 1902 that camels had been used to extract and transport megafauna fossils from the Simpson Desert.


We had ambitious plans to revisit the site in 2020 and 2021, but COVID-19 travel restrictions forced us to postpone. Further attempts in 2023 and 2024 were thwarted by major flooding in the Warburton River. 

Meet inermes 'Bruce'

One of the sites identified in 2007 was an area of fossils protruding from the creek bank, which were thought to be bones of diprotodon, a large marsupial which was widespread across Australia and is one of our most well known megafauna. Professor Smith examines the bones (left) and Expedition party member Dr Mike Sexton is pictured holding one of the fossils.

Images below are from the 2014 Expedition where Bruce was extracted from the creek bank.

Bruce

Analysis by the paleo team at Flinders University revealed the following:

The diprotodontid is an animal called Nototherium inerme and is one of the, if not THE rarest and least understood of the diprotodontids from anywhere in the fossil record. This find represents the first time that a specimen with all its teeth has been found and they’re in great condition so we’ll be able to learn a lot about its evolution and where it fits in from this. It also has large cheek flanges (called masseteric processes) telling us that it had very powerful jaw musculature but also that they may have been used as some kind of display feature.

Due to these large flanges, the face would have been relatively wide and flat with the eyes pointing forward, more similar to a panda than to the other diprotodontids that were around at the time. The skeleton that goes along with the skull also represents the first postcranial material that we’re able to say definitely belongs to Nototherium so there should also be some interesting stuff coming out there.
At this stage we have absolutely no idea how old the specimen is, without a close look at the geology and some sampling for OSL dating it’s pretty much anyone’s guess at the moment. The age could potentially range from about 100,000 years old up to a couple of million, with a higher probability that it’s at the younger end of the spectrum.

Dr Aaron Camens

Lecturer In Palaeontology
Ecology and Evolution, College of Science and Engineering, Flinders University

Why are we returning?

Our resident palaeontologist, Dr. Aaron Camens from Flinders University, is eager to revisit the site to investigate whether the recent flood events have uncovered more of Bruce. As Bruce represents the rarest of the three Diprotodon species, any additional bones would be a significant discovery, contributing valuable insights to our understanding of this elusive species.


Unlike the 2007 and 2014 expeditions, which dedicated extensive time to exploring the length of the Kallakoopah Creek, the 2025 journey will be a focused expedition, heading directly to the site with the aim of uncovering new findings.

kalla creek

Enroute to the Kallakoopah
In 2014, while walking on a separate survey to the Kallakoopah Creek, our palaeontologists eagerly investigated the edges of the small salt lakes we passed. Their efforts uncovered a plethora of fossils and bones, including remains of Genyornis, Diprotodon, sthenurine kangaroos, bettongs, fish, turtles, crocodiles, rodents, Crescent Nail-tail Wallabies, yabbies, mussel shells, and thousands of snail shells.


For the 2025 expedition, our proposed route takes us along several small salt lakes, and we will use this opportunity to search for additional fossil evidence along the lake fringes, much like we did in 2014 (see photos below). However, it is important to note that we will not revisit any existing fossil sites. The purpose is to use our 2025 transect to identify new fossil locations if opportunities arise. For further details, you can read Dr. Aaron Camens’ field report on the 2014 paleo survey here.
On a secondary level, the ecological objective of this expedition is to expand the search area of the previous survey (Watti Watti/Koomarinna) and, in particular, to look for evidence of the lesser and greater bilby as well as the plains mouse.

shells
digging for fossils
fossils
fossils

In the Footsteps of Winnecke

In late July 1883, Winnecke embarked on a privately funded expedition equipped with camels, aiming to locate viable pasture near the Queensland border. Starting at Sandringham Homestead and finishing at Palparara, the expedition traversed vast, waterless expanses of the eastern and northeastern Simpson Desert. At one point, the team traveled over 440 kilometres across high sandhills without finding water. While the expedition ultimately confirmed that no viable pastoral land existed in the region, it contributed to Winnecke’s recognition, earning him membership in the Royal Geographical Society.


Though our expedition is not a re-enactment of the 1883 journey, we have chosen to incorporate part of Winnecke’s expedition into our journey. We will revisit one of the exact locations where his expedition camped, an area of significance to our documentation of Simpson Desert mikiri.

Friday 17th ...”have sunk small shallow wells all along this creek, which is only two or three miles long, and is formed by the drainage from several small claypans....The country passed over to-day consists of white sandridges, most of which are very hight and steep, with flooded flats and sandy valley s in between; no timber or trees of any kind are visable; the sandridges are partly covered with cane grass, and the valleys with cane grass, polygonum, a few patches of saltbush and cottonbush, and also a few minute tufts of inferior grass.”


Our journey will begin on the Warburton River floodplain, travelling southwest toward the small salt lakes and Pooliadinna Waterhole, where Winnecke and his party camped on Friday, August 17, 1883.

along the salt lake

Image: State Library of South Australia

winnecke.jpeg

The expedition will be led by Andrew Harper (who also led the 2007 Arid Rivers Expedition) and he will refer to Winnecke's journal as we walk with our camel team in exactly the same area 142 years later.

As a major, though brief, scientific expedition, this 2025 journey will encompass paleontological discoveries, the documentation of Aboriginal and European history, and ultimately, a one-of-a-kind modern-day adventure for the entire expedition party.

kalla creek camels

On this expedition, you will walk alongside our team of pack camels, accompanied by four cameleers who will serve as your crew for the duration of the journey. While technically not “tour guides,” our cameleers are, first and foremost, seasoned stockmen and women. They are experts in handling and working with camels, with a wealth of experience navigating the desert and deep knowledge of its flora and fauna. They also hold profound respect for the First Nations people who call this remarkable landscape home.

Over the course of a 5 to 6 hour walking day (including breaks) you will cover approximately 8 to 10 kilometres. Our pace is set by the camels, as they navigate the dunes and other natural features of the landscape. The camels carry all your personal gear, leaving you with just your daypack and a healthy attitude. Everything else is best left behind!

 

This is a truly authentic Australian desert experience. Camels are the perfect cross-country vehicle, allowing us to travel far from roads and tracks, with no vehicle back-up. Campsites are selected based on the availability of camel feed, and we never camp in the same place twice.

As Australia’s only trekking company specialising in remote desert travel, you won’t encounter other trekking groups. Unlike the 4WD tracks that can become virtual highways of vehicles in winter, we journey into a silent desert landscape, far removed from the crowds.

 

All of our trips are active participation experiences. The cameleers will gladly involve you in loading and unloading the camels as much as you’d like to participate, with the level of involvement decided on a day-to-day basis.

Your assistance is also warmly welcomed with various camp chores at the end of the day, such as collecting firewood or helping to shepherd the camels as they graze. These tasks are part of the unique experience and foster a deeper connection to the rhythm of desert life.

What's included

4WD transfers to/from Birdsville to the Simpson Desert

All camping equipment - swags, stools, tents. You bring your own sleeping bag and eating utensils

All meals, though we do not provide snacks

LOTS of space...

RFDS Medical Chest and emergency communications equipment

Crew of 4 to 5 cameleers

Desert Silence!

Trekking with an environmentally aware responsible business 

(A detailed Expedition Information Guide is sent to you when you book)

What's not included

Pre and post trek airfares and accommodation. You are responsible for arranging your travel to/from Birdsville and any accommodation. We can help organise this for you

Please look at this page How To Get To Birdsville

What else is recommended?

Travel Insurance. You have the option to arrange your own travel insurance, or you can contact us for a quote.

Where are we trekking?

The expedition will be in the shaded area of the Simpson Desert, South Australia.

kalla.jpeg
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